A review by laurmyfe
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

adventurous emotional funny inspiring reflective relaxing slow-paced

4.25

The writing in this was fantastic. Author is perceptive and honest about himself and others. His love of waves comes across so clearly and cleanly. A writing style to aspire to. 

The end chapter was very poignant and melancholic. I didn’t think I would be that sad to see a return to Tavarua. Also, stark ending. And no acknowledgements was kind of insane to me, especially since he wrote about so many people so personally. The literal physical last page of the book being the last page of the memoir was surprisingly emotional. You turn that last page and you’re staring at the back cover. Maybe an experience I will never have with another book.